Questions & Answers

EVO-ONE Ready mode issue 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse / AUX Output

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I have an Evo-One installed on a 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Manual Transmission. The car is equipped with the factory alarm. I have function 32.5 (Ground out - Arm/Rearm) enabled as the installation guide states. It is connected to the Lt. Green driver door pin wire. However, after I put the car in “ready mode” when the car shuts off after I close the driver door and the pulse gets sent to the door pin (to arm/rearm factory alarm) it disables my “ready mode” as well. When I figured that out, I disconnected the (-GWR) wire from the door pin wire and the remote start works perfectly. Only thing is now the factory alarm doesn't arm after shut down of the remote start. Is there anything I can do? Or should I just keep that wire disconnected since everything else works fine.

Also, what wire do I use to connect an AUX output? I’d like to wire in my rear defrost to activate when I press Aux 1 on my remote.
asked Nov 25, 2015 in Mitsubishi by Saul G. (130 points)

1 Answer

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First the easy answer:

AUX is primarily the yellow/black wire and it's a negative trigger output.

  • Option 25 in the remote starter settings lets you play around with how it reacts to pressing the AUX button.
  • Option 39 activates the AUX output when its below -5 celcius autmatically.

 

Now for the reservation mode:

What is the 12 digit service number of that EVO-ONE?

Where is the little yellow wire from the 20-pin connector connected? Please look in the car, i spent a while on the phone once and his issue was that it was connected to the big yellow wire (yellow to yellow). It needs to be on ignition; so the thicker pink wire at the evo-one ignition harness.

answered Nov 26, 2015 by Robert T (297,620 points)
Thank you for the quick response. I would have to pull the Evo-One out to get the service number. But I have that yellow wire connected to the pink igniton wire. Everything is connected correctly. What was happening was when the GWR wire pulsed on the door trigger wire it was telling the Evo-One that a door had opened since that system is read via the Can-bus. Thus disabling reservation mode. When I noticed that I removed that connection and everything works fine now. I recently activated the Alarm function on the Evo-One and I am using that instead of the factory alarm since that could only be controlled by the OEM remote. So I'm okay with that issue.

As for the AUX output, I have that yellow/black wire connected to my trunk release since on the Quick Guide it said that was the trunk release wire. Which does work when I press the trunk button on my RF-KIT. Do I use that same wire if I want to wire in an AUX and run them to both circuits? Would I have to use diodes or anything? Because if thats the case wouldn't both circuits be triggered? Or if Option 25 is activated then the trunk output is disabled? Because I would like to have the trunk release and an AUX at the same time, I'm not sure how that would work on the same wire.

I'll need that service number so we can see all the options and firmware loaded in the EVO-ONE.

I personally like to be able to control original alarms via the aftermarket remotes, so if i can, I'll get a fix for this. Normally, factory ARM-DISARM can only be through the original remote (it's RF ONLY), but since it can also ARM by having a door open and pressing lock, this is why we have those connections to the door trigger. The downfall to this is on manual cars, anytime you press lock on the aftermarket remote, it will be pulsing that door trigger. I'll have to check if we can either get a firmware to fix this (if it does not cause security concerns with the reservation mode) or if there is some wiring trickery that can be done. It's extremmely important that the remote starter does go out of reservation mode when it sees a door open, so if we feel it can be a security concern, a solution may not be available to have oem alarm control via the aftermarket remote. I'll look into this.

 


 

The folllowing is based off a Fortin RF-KIT. (not sure which remotes you have).

The yellow/black can only be used for 1 function, as you said, if you were to isolate it with another circuit, both trunk and whatever else is connected would activate when you press that trunk button.

 

A little product knowledge:

The white wire in the 6-pin main harness can actually be used as the trunk output instead of the yellow/black but the signal would be a (+)positive and not (-)negative (see option 32.3). You would need to wire up a relay to change the polarity from positive to negative. Trunk release would still be off the aftermarket remote trunk button and the yellow/black would now function either automatically (option 39 (personal preference)) or by pressing AUX->Lock (or unlock i forget, it's late right now).

 

Notice something off though? You are currently using that white wire for 2nd accessory (since the Eclipse needs a 2nd accessory). No biggie, that's why relays exist! Just make your own 2nd accessory using another relay triggered by the 1st accessory (orange wire from 6-pin). This would free up that white wire to be used as a trunk release which in turn also frees up the yellow/black to be used as an AUX.

 

So, getting rear defrost would require a little work and 2 relays.

Option 32.3 - enables white wire to become trunk release. Must disconnect wire from 2nd accessory and then convert the signal from postive to negative using a relay. Another relay would then be needed to create a new 2nd accessory from the 1st accessory wire (orange wire of 6-pin).

 

Depending on how the rear defrost switch works (i believe latch for x-amount of time), you would need to play around with option 25 (most likely option 25.6 but with option 39 enabled since you only really want it on when it's real cold). You can easily test this by finding the defrost wire and manually triggering it. (i dont have the info for the defrost wire and if it's positive or negative trigger; most likely negative)

 

 

Thank you for explaing the AUX, I now understand how that works.

I will get you my service number shortly. As for the Arm/GWR issue, I did some research on my own and found out that on the same harness that the current lock/unlock wires are connected to are two pin locations that have no wires in but are for Lock-Arm and Unlock-Disarm that were for using the key cylinder to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the car that way. But since this vehicle can only be activated through RF those wires aren't present, but were pinned from the factory.

What I did to test my theory was I put a wire in the empty pin hole on the harness and sent a ground pulse through it and it did indeed locked/armed the car and when I tried the other pin it did unlock/disarm. So I was thinking of pinning those locations and moving the wires connected to the power lock/unlock from the EVO-ONE to that new location. What are your thoughts?

Now another issue that I have and I had to disconnect the wires D5 and D6 on the EVO-ONE which are connected to +12v and ignition because when those wires sent a pulse to activate the ignition upon lock/unlock because of the factory alarm it was setting off the EVO-ONE alarm because the igniton had activated. I disconnected those wires and now the igniton doesn't pulse upon lock/unlock and the Evo-One alarm works great. I just wanted to let you know that.

Because if my theory works on moving the lock/unlock wires to those new locations the igniton will not need pulsed to arm/disarm the factory system and everything would be working flawlessly.

What I did to test my theory was I put a wire in the empty pin hole on the harness and sent a ground pulse through it and it did indeed locked/armed the car and when I tried the other pin it did unlock/disarm. So I was thinking of pinning those locations and moving the wires connected to the power lock/unlock from the EVO-ONE to that new location. What are your thoughts?

no reason for this not to work! Good find. You might have to use the Purple and Purple/White from the EVO-ONE though as those outputs are controlled by the remote starter options. the ligh blue and light blue/black are controlled by whatever is programmed in the bypass options. 

Now another issue that I have and I had to disconnect the wires D5 and D6 on the EVO-ONE which are connected to +12v and ignition because when those wires sent a pulse to activate the ignition upon lock/unlock because of the factory alarm it was setting off the EVO-ONE alarm because the igniton had activated. I disconnected those wires and now the igniton doesn't pulse upon lock/unlock and the Evo-One alarm works great. I just wanted to let you know that.

Enabling option C1-OEM Remote monitoring in the Bypass options should fix this. This will sync the oem and aftermarket alarms no matter which remote is used. You can leave D5-D6 disconnected if that above find of lock/arm-unlock/disarm works; we normally use it to disarm the oem alarm but you most likely do not need it now. 

 

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